The #1 reason why cats are abandoned, abused, placed in shelters or put down is because of non-use of their litter boxes.

Understanding Why This Can Happen

To get to the root of the problem we first must know and understand the different causes to consider.  There are 3 likely main causes for a cat not using their litter box.  Knowing which category your cat falls into is so crucial to resolving the problem.  In order to correct it you will need to utilize both behavior modification and stress reduction techniques for best results.

The 3 Leading Causes If Your Cat Won’t Use Their Litter Box

1.)     Medical Condition:  First step is to take them in for a check-up at your local veterinarian.  I recommend a complete physical examination to rule out any underlying medical problems.   If they don’t pee or poop for more than a day this could be a blockage, intestinal tract or urinary tract infection.  This is very painful to a kitty.  You might see him/her hiding or crying and it is potentially deadly if not treated quickly. If it is a urinary tract infection please keep in mind that even after they are treated they may continue to soil the same trouble spots due to habit even long after the initial infection is cured.  Another scenario might be your cat  peeing outside of its litter box.  That’s a possible bladder infection.
Another thing you may consider is was your cat recently declawed? Is your kitty older?  That may be an  ingrown claw.  This happens more frequently than you might think especially in older cats.  They need their claws checked regularly as they can curl under and grow into their paw pad. This is very very painful & will prevent a cat not using their litter box. Cats depend upon the sensations in their paws for information about their environment, including their litter boxes. Cats may feel discomfort or pain in their toes for awhile after declawing while they are still healing, which can make it hurt to stand or dig in cat litter.  Discuss all the various options with your vet including the consideration of giving your cat Clomicalm; a kitty Prozac as a possible solution.

2.)     Territorial Marking:  This is a natural behavior for both male and female cats used for communication and should not be confused with other non use issues of their litter.  To determine if they are just marking the area watch them sniff the location prior to marking and will then just leave a small amount of urine behind without pawing the area and retreating away.  This can be fixed by placing scratch posts in trouble spots so that they mark with their paws instead of spraying.  You can use your cats own pheromones or purchase a synthetic feline pheromone in your local pet store.  To use your cats own scent; rub a soft cloth between their eyes and behind their ears.  Then rub the cloth on the soiled area to create a “friendly zone” thus eliminating the need to do territorial marking or spraying.  Wipe the cloth repeatedly on the soiled area over several weeks.

Cats may also do defecation for creating their own territorial spaces.  Signs of this type include defecating in very conspicuous and unusual spots such as on top of a table or in a sink or tub.  Your vet may also be able to prescribe medication to reduce marking. Have your cat complete a physical examination to rule out any other problem first.

3.)     Behavioral Issue:  This category includes everything from you choosing an offensive litter causing “box rejection,” to location preference (the cat who chooses an out of away closet instead of its box) to stress induced soiling (often related to changes in the household such as moving, major home renovations and more.)  Since all litter box problems are somewhat behavioral; these techniques make a great starting point for solving the litter box issues.

Steps For Success:  Retraining Your Cat Or New Kitten

**First and foremost; never punish your cat or kitten.  Harsh treatment only creates more stress and may result in the problem getting worse.  Instead; reward your cat immediately with treats when it does use the litter box.

  1.)     Clean-Up All Trace Evidence.

Do everything you can to eliminate any trace of odor from the urine trouble spots.  A cat’s sense of smell is 1000x stronger than a human; so this step is very important. Once a cat has marked an area with urine or feces, a problem cat may regard that area as an appropriate place to relieve themselves.  Always keep in mind that they are creatures of habit and repeatedly soil the same location.

Tip:  Avoid ammonia based cleaners.  They can contribute to the problem with their urine like scent.

Tip:  Try to keep your cat away from the trouble spots by covering the area with a plastic runner placed spike side up or use self-sticking shelf sticky paper with sticky side up.

Tip:  Use a lemon based air freshener.  It repels the cat and also neutralizes the odor.

Tip:  If still your cat can’t resist the trouble area; try placing their food there.  Cats don’t like to s**t where they eat.  Never have their litter box near their food dishes.

2.)     Clean Cat Room & Litter Area Thoroughly. 

Isolate your cat to a room.  Make sure their litter box isn’t sitting right next to their food dish.  Give them plenty of water, a blanket and toys for amusement.  Leave them in there for several days checking in twice a day for routine litter box cleaning and petting/loving time.

Tip:  After Isolation for a couple of days try letting them out to see if it has been corrected.  Having 2 litter boxes per cat is another fantastic idea.  Just be sure the litter boxes aren’t next to each other side by side.  The best option would be to have a litter box on each level of your home.

3.)     Try Replacing Your Current Cat Litter With Dr. Elsey’s Cat Attract Litter.

I had to see it to believe it!  It seems to work!  You can find this litter and many other of his cat attract accessories at your local Petco, Pet Smart or online.  The special cat attract litter will be priced a little higher than your normal litter around $13.99 a bag for about 20 lbs of it; But it’s worth every penny and more!  This litter has rescued many cats from having to be put down.  It’s truly amazing!

• Clay-based, clumping litter has just the right particle size and special herbal scent.
• Proven to work and attract cats.
• It’s scoop able
• Claims its 99% dust free.  (Although I think it’s still a little dusty if you ask me.)
• Contains chlorophyll for natural odor control
• Each bag of litter includes step-by-step instructions for best results.
• Includes unconditional manufactures guarantee
• Click this link to view at Petco… Dr. Elsey’s Cat Attract Litter
  

4.)     Daily Remove Feces & Urine Clumps In Their Litter Box. 

At least once a day preferably twice a day clean it out.

Tip:  If your cat doesn’t respond to a clean litter box, you may need to replace it with a new one and then place it in a different location.  Sometimes old cat litter boxes get scratched up and can permit an unpleasant odor to the cats.

5.)     Consider A Litter Box Make Over.  

Hooded boxes are designed for humans not necessarily for cats.  Try removing the hood and moving its location to a quiet out of the way spot with convenient access for your cats but not so convenient for your dog.  Dogs may stand by the litter box making the cat nervous and sometimes they will even try to eat the cat poop afterwards…gross

Tip:  Keep the litter box away from bright lights, loud noises, vibrations and small children.  If you can; place the litter box in the middle of the room so they don’t feel trapped or anxious.

6.)     Treat Your Cat To Some Extra Love, Playtime & R&R. 

Stress is the leading cause for a cat not to use its litter box.  Try these tips to help comfort your kitty…

Tip:  Avoid major home renovations and moving a lot.

Tip:  In a multiple cat homes make sure the cats have their own zone or area with its own food, water, play toys, scratching posts and an elevated perch for relaxing on.  Heated beds and cat condos near a window for viewing out are an added bonus for a great “Cat Scratch Pad”

Tip: Play with your cat at least 15 minutes every day.  Make sure they have plenty of toys to stalk and try rotating the cat toys out to keep it exciting for them.

Tip:  Play “Kitty-hide-and-seek.”  It’s a lot of fun!  Do it by placing hidden kitty treats and pieces of food around their cat zone to search, hunt and eat.

Tip:  Leave the TV or radio on when you leave the home to help with boredom.

**If the problem continues to persist even after using the new litter and training tips listed; please immediately take your cat to your veterinarian.  Your cat may have a serious medical problem.

Kitten Training

Training a kitten is very different from training a dog.  Kittens instinctively want to seek out a location to dig.  You can help them with consistency by placing their litter box in a very accessible location.  Their bladders aren’t fully matured yet and can be much weaker than average adult cats.

After feeding time is over immediately place kitten in their litter box and step away.  Don’t try to show them how to dig by grabbing and digging their paws in the litter.  Kittens naturally have an “elimination reflex” after eating.  By doing this consistently it guides them to the associate for the box with the natural reflex.  You may also want to place a small step by box to help them into the litter.  Dr. Elsey’s Kitten Attract Litter has been developed specially for their tiny tender paws while maintaining superior clumping capabilities.  They added specific herb attractants just for kittens as well.

Tip:  Avoid using perfumed or cedar based litters for kittens.  They may find it offensive with their extra sensitive noses.

Researched & Written By: Melissa Fisher

***** What To Do If Your Cat Won’t Use Their Litter Box

The holidays will soon be here!  To ensure your pets receive the love and care they need and deserve please book early your pet sitting services.

All “paws” will be on deck for the holidays to make sure your furry friends get the proper attention. 

Pet Sitting Services scheduled on Christmas Day will receive a special gift from us:-)

To ask a question or to book pet sitting services please click this link…

Contact Us: Book Pet Sitting Services

Or

Call 678-825-4738

***** Reminder: Book Your Pet Sitting Services For The Holidays

DOG FESTIVAL!

(Please Help Spread the Word through Social Media)

Come and celebrate animals with me at a dog festival!

FREE EVENT: Sunday, September 30th 2012, 9:00 am. – 1:00 p.m

LOCATION: Brooke Run Park on Georgia Way South, Dunwoody Georgia

DETAILS:

• Live music
• Animal related vendors
• Silent auction
• Dogs looking for homes
• Humane activities for kids and more
• Demos
• Enjoy a street or nature walk
• 5K Run was unfortunately cancelled by Dunwoody police.

The Governor of Georgia and the Mayor of Dunwoody have proclaimed September 24-30th as CELEBRATE ANIMALS WEEK.  Bring your dog or come with a friend and enjoy the festival.  Please join in the festivities on Sunday, September 30th, as WellPet Humane will host the celebration with demos and live music.

Wellpet Humane is Metro Atlanta’s Pet Charity Veterinary Clinic, not free but affordable veterinary care for animals owned by people who are experiencing financial hardships. It is the mission of the Atlanta Animal Alliance to eliminate “economic euthanasia.”

On Sunday, September 30th, families (with or without their dog) can take a walk or run in beautiful Brooke Run Park just off North Peachtree in Dunwoody, GA. The grounds will open at 8 am The event will start at 9 a.m. Guests and participants may enjoy music, refreshments and demonstrations before, during and after the event. This is a FREE event to all participants. Donations are very much appreciated. Go to Celebrate Animals

The event will also feature a Super Adoption, where licensed and registered animal rescue shelters with purebred and mixed bred dogs will be available for adoption. For more information on WellPet Humane, log on to: Well Pet Humane

I know I’ll be there!  I hope you come too!

***** Celebrate Animals Dog Festival This Sunday September 30th

Q. A viewer wrote in asking, “My dog appears to have separation anxiety when I leave.   My dog won’t eat.   Is there anything I can do to correct her behavior?”

Regards,

-Linda M.

A. That’s a great question Linda and the answer is “yes.”  As a pet sitter I once in awhile deal with this problem.  It can be separation anxiety but it may also be something else.  So it’s very important to analyze their history and diagnose it properly.  There may be underlying medical issues, so seeing a veterinarian is an important step.  Or it may be her age as well.  Separation anxiety is based on fear. So it is important to ensure that your dog feels safe when your not around.

First Step: Assess the current environment and their behaviors:

• What does your dog do when you are getting  ready to leave?
• What do you do when you are getting ready to leave?  What is your reaction to her?
• Is she destructive when you leave? Such as going through the trash and so on?
• Are there other pets?
• What toys does your dog have available?
• Do you have a pet sitter that checks in on her?

Behavioral changes start with the cues from the owner. A change or elimination of the routine when an owner leaves or returns home may help. It is important for the pet to stay calm before an owner leaves and when the owner comes home.  Hiring a pet sitter is a great choice.  It helps break up their day.  It’s good for your dog to be able to take directions from others.   Having a pet sitter  routinely come visit them is a major plus!  Try rotating out interactive toys or have a special toy that only comes out when the pet sitter is visiting.

My secret to getting a dog to eat when their owners are away.  I make it exciting for them!  After you have had lots of play time and a good walk, put their dog food in their dish.  Next go over to their treats bag all the while their watching you.  Proceed to tell them that your making a special treat for them with excitement in your voice.   Take your time slowly  breaking  the treats into small little bits.  Usually one or two of the treats depending on size. Then mix them really good into their food.  At this point their mouth should be salivating.  Next have them do a trick such as sit, stay, and okay before you place their food down.  Make them work for it and earn it.  Feeding time should be a rewarding experience.

Please keep in mind behaviors take time and consistency to change, so consulting with a behaviorist or experienced trainer can make a significant difference in the success of the training. Stick to the same pet sitter for a long term strong bond. Antidepressants or anti-anxiety drugs can be given to dogs with separation anxiety, but should not be relied on as the sole treatment for separation anxiety.  First try my methods above before you resort to this.

For more helpful tips on  Pet Separation Anxiety click the link below…

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***** Training tip of the day: My dog won’t eat when I leave

Fox 5 News Atlanta recently did a report on training mistakes  that we humans make when dealing with our dogs.  They interviewed Angie Woods a dog expert and asked her “What training mistakes do we make with our dogs?” Great interview!  As a pet sitter I see these problems  often.  One major point  or what I’d rather call a “pet-peeve” is understanding and remembering that dogs process things different than us.  They have different brains.  As humans we commonly forget this and instinctively try to humanize them.   This is when MOST of the behavior problems begin.  The problem usually isn’t the dog; it’s us and how we interact with them.

If you own a dog, thinking about getting one or just know someone who has a dog  SHARE with them and WATCH this short video clip!

They go into depth on some of these common mistakes we make with our dogs

• Humanization of dogs
• Unknowingly reinforcing unstable behavior
• Lack of exercise. Letting them out in the backyard isn’t enough.  If they aren’t exercised every day where are they going to put that energy?

Reporter: Beth Galvin, Fox News

***** Training mistakes we make with our dog

Dog influenza is actually relatively new.  It was first discovered in January of 2004.  Since then cases have been reported in 39 states. 

One of the factors that makes CIV such a concern for anyone who owns or works with dogs is that the virus can spread quickly and easily.  You may come into contact with a dog carrying it and not even know.  The virus can easily get on your clothes or hands.  Because most dogs have no natural immunity against CIV, virtually all dogs exposed to the virus become infected. CIV can be spread through direct dog-to-dog contact and through airborne particles released when an infected dog coughs or sneezes.

 Symptoms:

• Mild – These dogs will have a cough that is typically moist and can have nasal discharge. Occasionally, it will be more of a dry cough. In most cases, the symptoms will last 10 to 30 days and usually will go away on its own.
• Severe – Generally, these dogs have a high fever (above 104 degrees Fahrenheit) and develop signs very quickly. Pneumonia, specifically hemorrhagic pneumonia, can develop. The influenza virus affects the capillaries in the lungs, so the dog may cough up blood and have trouble breathing if there is bleeding into the alveoli (air sacs). Patients may also be infected with bacterial pneumonia, which can further complicate the situation.
• Red and/or runny eyes and runny nose may be seen in some dogs. In most cases, there is a history of contact with other dogs that carried the virus.

Warning signs include:

• coughing
• sneezing
• anorexia
• fever
• malaise

Diagnosis:

Besides a physical, the veterinarian will want to perform a complete blood count and clinical chemistry on the dog. Usually, increases are seen in the white blood cells, specifically the neutrophils, a white blood cell that is destructive to microorganisms. X-rays (radiographs) can be taken of the dog’s lungs to characterize the type of pneumonia.

Another diagnostic tool called a bronchoscope can be used to see the trachea and larger bronchi. Cell samples can also be collected by conducting a bronchial wash or a bronchoalveolar lavage. These samples will typically have large amounts of neutrophils and may contain bacteria.

Detecting the virus itself is very difficult and is usually not recommended. There is a blood (serological) test that can support a canine influenza diagnosis. In most cases, a blood sample is taken after initial symptoms develop and then again two to three weeks later

Treatment Options:

• The mild form:  is usually treatable with cough suppressants. Antibiotics may be used if there is a secondary bacterial infection. Rest and isolation from other dogs is also important.
• The severe form: it needs to be treated aggressively with a broad spectrum of antibiotics, fluids and other general support treatments. Hospitalization and isolation are necessary until the dog is stable.

A vaccine for the canine flu is currently available, though it should only be considered after speaking with your veterinarian. In addition, there are other respiratory conditions that can be vaccinated against, specifically Bordetella bronchiseptica, the bacteria responsible for what is commonly called “kennel cough.”

Any dog that is suspected to have canine influenza should be isolated from other dogs. Those dogs with the mild form of the infection usually recover on their own. Canine influenza is not a contagion issue for humans or other species.  Protect all dogs you come into contact with by recognizing the warning signs of dog flu, taking precautions to limit the chances of spreading the virus by washing hands thoroughly.

***** Canine Influenza On The Rise

Now that the climate is perfect; it’s a great time to plan a long walk, hike or a camping trip with your beloved pooch.  Checkout these must have outdoor dog walking gear products I found at REI.  They also make great gift ideas for family and friends for the holidays.

Ruffwear Singletrak Hydration dog pack is ideal for your dusty, thirsty dog’s trail adventures in dry climates.

• 2 removable Platypus® water reservoirs let your dog carry his water and yours; 2 external stash pockets fit a collapsible bowl, leash and pick-up bags
• Body-hugging saddlebags resist shifting, snagging and flopping
• 5 points of adjustability offer a customizable fit
• Light and breathable materials help keep your dog cool and comfortable
• Ruffwear Singletrak Hydration dog pack features reflective accents that provide 360° of visibility in low light

Sizing is based on girth. For girth, measure around the widest part of your dog’s rib cage.

Comes in Small, Medium or Large

$90.00  Ruff Wear Singletrak Hydration Dog Pack

This pocket size Field Guide To Dog First Aid leads you through techniques for handling injuries and problems that your dog can encounter.

• Covers a wide variety of situations, including sunstroke, snake bites, cuts, choking, broken bones and more
• Handy pocket size is easy to carry in a pocket or pack; waxed cover is weather proof and wipes off
• Published in 1994; authors Randy Acker, D.V.M. with Jim Fergus; softcover; 75 pages; sketches support text
• Not a substitute for professional veterinary care

$15.00   Field Guide To Dog First Aid

The Aerobie Dogobie Flying Disc makes long, stable flights and is tough enough to endure fetch after fetch.

• Flexible, tear-resistant material is durable and gentle on your dog’s mouth and easy to pick up
• Aerobie Dogobie Flying Disc floats—perfect for playing in or near the water
• Comes in assorted colors only; sorry, specific color requests cannot be accommodated

$6.50   Aerobie Dogobie Flying Disc

Whether hiking a desert canyon or walking in a city park on a hot day, the Ruffwear Swamp Cooler Dog Vest will keep your pooch cool and comfortable.

• Mesh fabric uses an evaporation cooling process—simply soak vest with cold water and it will dissipate heat as the water evaporates
• Top air-mesh layer facilitates evaporation and releases heat, middle layer absorbs and stores cooling water, and bottom layer cools your dog
• Light fabric reflects sunlight and heat to enhance the cooling effect
• Ergonomic cut offers a comfortable fit that stays in place; adjustable harness with quick-release buckles allow easy on/off convenience
• Attachment loop situated between dog’s shoulder blades offers a clip point for a beacon light (light sold separately)

Comes in Sm, Med, Lg or X-Lg  $55.00   Ruff Wear Swamp Cooler Dog Vest

Nite Ize Spotlit LED Pet Light Enhance your dog’s safety and visibility with this bright, collar-mounted beacon

• Strong, stainless-steel spring clip attaches easily to your dog’s collar ring
• Squeeze once to engage constant glow, twice for flash mode
• Water-resistant design protects light for use in wet conditions
• Includes two long-lasting, replaceable batteries

 $7.00   Nite Ize Spotlit LED Pet Light

***** Things We Dig: Outdoor Dog Walking Gear

1. Assert yourself as pack leader train your dog to sit and become calm before leaving the house. When you are ready to leave the house you should be the first to exit and also the first one in.  Asserting yourself as pack leader will greatly improve your dog’s behavior.  Being a weak pack leader can really stress out your dog.  They may become more anxious and develop fear aggression and more.  They need to know their pack order.  They want you to lead. So take control and don’t let your dog take you for a walk

2. Use a shortened leash for more overall control.  Keep the same length of leash at all times during training.  To keep them from pulling; they first must learn that they only have a certain amount of leash.  Keep the retractable leash for later until they have learned how to properly walk at your side or slightly behind you.

3. Make walking by your side a positive experience. Screaming “heel” or “no pull” at your dog does not work and is certainly no fun for either of you. Instead, randomly reward your dog with a treat when they are on your side as you reinforce their behavior with the word “close.” Don’t use the phrase “good dog” because your dog has no idea what they did that was good, so how can they repeat it? Instead, acknowledge the behavior by naming and rewarding it.

4. Continue praising your dog along the way. This is a great way to keep them in tune with you and your pace. Don’t ignore the positive behavior.  We sometimes forget that if we constantly are just paying attention to them when they are doing something wrong and aren’t acknowledging them when they are doing it correctly we are giving them attention only for the bad behaviors. Let’s keep it positive.

5. Make a distinction between walking and heeling.  A heeling dog should be actively paying attention to you, while a walking dog can sniff and roam a little.  Practice heel training especially when crossing the street.  Have them “sit and stay” until you give them the command to cross the street.  If you are standing still they should be in the sitting position.  Then continue on by saying “ok cross the street.”

6. Keep leading, even after the walk.  When you get home, don’t stop leading. Have your dog wait patiently while you put away their leash or take off your shoes.

7. Reward your dog after the walk.  By providing a meal after the walk, you have allowed your dog to “work” for food and water.

For more walking tips please also check out Choosing The Right Dog Collar

Have a question for me? Click this link Contact Me

***** 7 Highly Effective Dog Walking Training Tips

There are so many different styles of dog collars to choose from.  Choosing the right dog collar may be confusing as to which one is best tailored to your dog’s specific needs.  Many factors play a role in selecting the right collar such as your dog’s size, disposition, and individual training needs.  To better understand the different choices; I have listed a dog collar guide with the basic types, what kind of dog behavior best suits each one and tips on how to properly use them for best results when walking your dog.

Traditional Dog Collars are available in a variety of styles, colors, and widths. .  For the majority of dogs this collar works great.  It fits comfortably around your dog’s neck, and is recommended for dogs that love to walk and take it easy.

Tips:  Make sure the collar rides high on your pet’s neck, not loose so that it slides down near the top of their shoulder blades. Dog Collars should be snug with enough room to fit two    fingers between your dog’s neck and their collar. For your dog’s safety, the collar should not be loose enough to slip over the pet’s head. Collars should also not be so tight as to restrict breathing or cause coughing. Check collar size frequently on growing puppies. Use a tape measure to measure your pet’s neck, and then add on two to three inches.

**This collar is not recommended for dogs that love to pull because they choke and damage their tracheas.**

Head Collar or Halter-Type Dog Collars will give you the best control over your dog. There are several brands of these collars including my favorite the [ilinkurl="http://www.amazon.com/Gentle-Leader-Head-Collar-Size/dp/B0035R4CR2/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1347167825&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=gentle+leader"]Gentle Leader- Click To Purchase[/ilink] . The Gentle Leader has a band that goes around the back of the dogs head and another band that goes around their nose.  The leash then clips on underneath their chin.  Thus giving you full control and virtually making it impossible for them to pull hard.  When they tug on the leash it gently pushes their noses down and towards their chests.  This collar forces them to slow their brains down and hold their heads up high.  The very first time you put it on you will see a night and day difference in your dog.

It’s good a design and it’s also safe for dogs.  You don’t have to worry about any painful effects, unlike the buckle collar. However, some dogs have issues with this type of collar, as they tend to get uncomfortable while wearing it, and sometimes they may even attempt to remove their collar or refuse to move or walk.  Another issue is some people are hesitant to use the collar since they feel it looks more like a muzzle than a collar. You may have people ask you about the collar, but more often than not, when you are through explaining it, they will ask you where they can get one for their dog.

Tips:  Fitting is very important with the Gentle Leader. 99% of all problems that occur with the product are due to an improper fit. When one first purchases the product, it is best to take a few minutes to watch the DVD and read the training guide. Here are a couple more tips:

First examine the dog’s weight:

•      Less than 5 lbs.; select Petite5-25 lbs
•      Choose Small for dogs 25-60 lbs
•      Go with a Medium for dogs 60-130 lbs
•      Larger than 130 lbs. choose  X-Large

Then, look at the shape of the dog’s head and snout. Breeds with long slender heads may take a smaller size than other dogs of the same weight. Breeds with wide muzzles may need a slightly larger size. When in doubt dog owners should go the next larger size

When fitted properly and viewed from the side the Gentle Leader will be in the shape of “V” for “Victory.” If the neck strap is too loose, the Gentle Leader will incorrectly resemble a “L” for “Loser”.

Neck Strap fit – The neck strap must be positioned as high on the neck as possible, directly behind the ears and touching the base of the skull in back and above the Adam’s apple in front. It should fit very snugly at the top of the neck so that one can barely get a single finger underneath, like a watchband. It doesn’t cause discomfort to the dog.

Nose Loop Strap fit – Loose and comfortable so that the dog can freely open his/her mouth, but not so loose that it can be pulled off over the nose. It should rest close to the dog’s eyes and behind the corners of the mouth.

Harnesses go around the neck and around the shoulders behind the front legs, are recommended for dogs that have upper respiratory disease or diseases of the throat or trachea, such as a collapsed trachea. If a dog with a collar pulls on the leash, it places pressure on the throat and trachea, causing irritation and coughing. Harnesses relieve that pressure.  They are a soft and safe alternative for your dog.  Compared to a leash, it distributes the pulling force throughout the dog’s body. However, its disadvantages appear when a dog tends to pull harder.

Slip Collar are a bit similar to normal collars, but have a safer feature – they only tighten on a restricted point, so your dog is safe from choking and suffocation. Even with that, it still gives you control over your dog. It is easy to put on your dog, as it only goes over your dog’s head and snaps around his neck. But if your dog is a consistent puller, then this collar might not work as you planned.

Tips:  For correct sizing, measure your pet’s neck and add 2-1/2″- 3″. There is a right and wrong way to put a slip collar on a dog. To correctly place a collar on a dog, the top ring on a properly-looped collar forms a letter P when you stand in front of the dog and pull it snug. If it forms the number 9, it is on backward and may not release immediately as designed, which may cause discomfort or gagging.

Prong Collar also called pinch collars, contain blunt prongs that protrude inward from the links.  They are safe despite their appearance being similar to that of a choke collar. The spaced prongs create an equally distributed force around the neck, without direct pressure on the trachea compared to a choke collar.  They are designed only for the most stubborn pullers, they are temporary training tools used to change behavior on dogs that do not respond to any other collar.

Choke Collar this type of collar should be used with great care, as it is only used for aggression cases, in which you cannot control the dog anymore and it is causing damage to people and pets. It is also used for aggression training. When you jerk or pull it up, it tightens, but releases when you let go of it.

Tips:  If you plan to use a choke collar on your dog, have a trainer show you how to use it correctly. Correct usage involves a quick ‘tug-and-release’ action (as opposed to a steady pulling) that tells the pet a different behavior is desired.

**Remember to play safe when using this collar as it can put your dog’s life in danger and may even cause trauma. The “prong’ collar is usually a better choice.  This is a last resort option.  **

**These collars should only be worn during training sessions, never in a crate, and avoided in pets with delicate tracheas, such as Yorkshire Terriers**

Owners who know how to correctly train their dogs rarely need this type of collar. Rather, they learned they were training their pet incorrectly, and were able to successfully train their dog using other collars after learning proper methods.

Final Note: Every collar you own should have a current name tag attached to it at all times.  Successfully training your dog, as many experts would say, depends on the equipment you use.  If you are still having difficulties training your dog to walk nicely consult a dog trainer.  For more advice refer to my article7 Highly Effective Dog Walking Training Tips

***** Choosing the right dog collar

Pet Sitter Patrol is offering huge promotions for the fall.  In order to take advantage of these special offers you must be booked by October 31st.

Fall Promotion

Friend Referral Coupon

Senior Citizen Discount

***** Pet Sitter Patrol Fall Promotion